Velebit Hiking

I sat for a moment on a stone too small for my butt, but a moment of respite regardless, and breathed a sigh of pride. Stage 4 cancer. twice. Type 2 diabetes. Type 1 diabetes. Borderline cardiac function. Diminished pulmonary function. Beginning fibromyalgia. Beginning arthritis. So. many. freaking. health issues. 

And yet. 

I did it. 

I hiked the top of the cliffs of Tulove Grede, part of the Velebit mountain range. Granted, I didn't hike from all the way at the bottom... but still. It was over 250m/800 ft almost straight up, with loose rocks and barely a path at all. More than 2.5 km to be hiked in less than 2-hours as we had a timed cave entry next. Add to that steep elevation the Bora winds, which flow over the top of the mountains, often reaching hurricane speeds. We clocked the wind at 87 kmh for most of the hike; it absolutely sucked the air right out of my lungs. Paired with that, the fact that the temperatures were way colder than predicted when I packed my suitcase more than a week ago, resulting in me wearing almost every layer I had brought. It was hard. but so was this trip. 

I knew I'd need a vacation after my sister's wedding. And I was very right. But none of the almost dozen people I asked could make it to accompany me. I'm not scared of solo travel. I've done many solo vacations, and I solo travelled the Midwest for several years for work. But recently, a new diabetes med has caused me multiple hypoglycemic episodes. One of which ended up in me falling and severely bruising several joints as well as scraping up my elbows. Another of which ended with me nearly passing out on the Champs Elysees (luckily with friends). And a few others which made me cautious about solo traveling (especially hiking) in a foreign country I've never been in. I struggled with booking the trip extension. But it didn't seem fair that at 31 I should be letting my health dictate my leisure time, and so as stupid as it seemed I committed to doing the trip. I had two friends graciously offer to track my location, and so I decided that was enough to be safe. 

I booked myself Airbnb’s for the trips, as well as a guided AirBNB experience for the first time! It promised photograph worthy spots and views and a knowledgeable tour guide, and it delivered. 

However, the third stop was the cliffs at the top of the Velebit range. There were two others on the tour with me, a mother + daughter. Over the course of the day, it was discovered that the mom had mobility issues due to her health, and I could feel her pain as she also struggled up and down the mountain side. She started strong though, and took care to check in on me as I fell behind, and even to offer me food at various points through the day. 

But when I finally made it to the top of our climb, I felt exhilaration. Not necessarily from the view, which was not significantly better than it had been 100m lower, but from the fact that I had actually accomplished the hike, without the generous care and stops of my friends who know my limitations. I went with perfect strangers, and while "kept up" is a strong term, I did make the time constraints we had on our trip, despite feeling like I was going to be blown over every other second. 

The day's itinerary also included two caves. While we debated going to both, our choice was made for us as we had to enter the upper cave at our designated time. The entrance was around 130m/420ft up another steep ascent, before we trailed almost a kilometer of paths inside the cave. Then more elevation changes as we went down to traipse through the lower cave next. Finally, three hours after arriving at the caves, we were ready to depart. 

Today was insanely hard. And quite long. And not a day I wish to repeat soon. My body is screaming in pain, and I don't know if I have the energy to lift my feet and walk to bed. But I freaking did it.